For free naturals, the main focus for care and growth is maintaining a balance between your protein and moisture levels. This is literally balancing hard and soft in each hair strand.
This balancing act means something different for each person as porosity will dictates how you perform this act. Before we get into the nitty gritty of porosity’s part in the act, first we’ll explain why you needs to maintain your moisture and protein levels.
Adding protein to your hair is an essential in almost everyone’s regimen. This is due to your hair’s’ protein bonds constantly being battered by the elements. As your hair takes a beating from combing, heat, chemical treatments, weave, gel, etc., the protein bonds that make them up start falling part. It is then your responsibility to add protein to your hair to fill the gaps that damage has left.
Protein is funny though. After adding what feels to you to be liquid/cream protein, on a microscopic level these proteins are like putty that fills in the cracks of your damaged hair strand. When they dry, just like putty or cement, they harden. You may not feel this at first, but with constant use of products with certain proteins your hair will reach a dull, easy to snap and break neck of the woods that will mean a pretty drastic trim for you.
On the other side of the coin there are certain products that soften your hair’s protein bonds and impart moisture to the different levels of your hair strand. If used too often however, your hair will achieve a limp, easy-to-pop when stretched state that will mean a damage trim is in your near future.
So protein alone will not do. And moisture alone cannot keep your healthy hair journey afloat.
|High Porosity||Medium Porosity||Low Porosity|
|Symptoms||Gets wet in no time||Gets wet readily but not drenched||Its like water on a ducks back dear.|
|Relationship with water||Water passes easily in and out of your hair strand||Water passes through the strand at moderate rate and doesn’t leave the hair to soon||Water finds it hard to invade this space|
|Fix||Butter sealants, lots of protein||Use balancing treatments to maitain your paradise||Do deep moisture treatments with steam regularly|
|Your regimen||Will contain more product use and needs greater care||Rock out with your hair out! Joke – seal every 2 days||Needs a lot of moisture. Try using warm water to wash your hair sometimes to increase absorbancy.|
Knowing your porosity is key to having healthy hair. Porosity on a microscopic level is just how closely packed together the protein bonds on the outermost layer (cuticle) of you hair is. If they are very closely packed together that means it will be hard for your hair to absorb water and hair products. It also means that you will need much fewer protein treatment than persons with normal or high porosity. As there aren’t many chinks in the armour of your hair strand you wont need to worry about many of the bonds falling away during regular combing sessions or letting your hair out.
- For medium porosity a moderate to light amount of protein is O.K. For high porosity you will need to have protein by your side constantly.This is why knowing your porosity is so important. It is the secret to growing your hair long, healthy and strong.
- When applying your products for moisture and protein remember to focus on your ends as they are the first to pop when put under pressure because they are the oldest and weakest section of your hair.
- Knowing your Porosity -> Which moisture/protein routine needed -> Which products are best suited for your hair and scalp care.
The main focus of a Locked regimen is to keep locks clean and moisturized. Protein is minimal unless the individual in question has added colour to their hair. Locked hair needs this type of attention as it is very easy to pick up dirt, debris and lint, but it is very hard to get build up out as the hair is in clusters. It is however very easy to keep locks clean, healthy and soft! By clarifying your hair regularly, you can keep your scalp and hair dirt free. Balance this with moisturizing shampoos and conditioners and you can have bouncy, soft, smooth locks.
For all hair types moisturizing and sealing hair is a must to keep the strands flexible and breakage free. For individuals with locks it is vitally important to use all natural products that are easily absorbed into the hair shaft. Products that leave a residue on locks will cause gunk to build up on both hair and scalp.
For individuals who have bleached/coloured hair, using a balancing* conditioner and balancing leave-in is best.
Locks and Porosity
Locks, in general, are considered to be low porosity. This is due to the fact that each lock is made up of layers of individual hairs. Hence it takes effort to get each lock saturated with water or product all the way through. And once the lock is saturated it takes some time for it to dry.
Because locks tend to be low porosity products that are water based are best to use. Ingredients in locked products should also have a small molecular size so that they can be readily absorbed into the lock. This is why 100% natural products are a must.
*Balancing – A mixture of protein and moisture ingredients designed to help you maintain the moisture/protein balance in your hair.
We hope this helps you to understand why knowing your porosity and achieving your protein/moisture balance is important. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments section!